Historical trajectories of fashion: from ancient luxury to its democratization

Authors

  • António Machuco Rosa Universidade do Porto

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.18568/cmc.v11i31.514

Keywords:

Luxury, Fashion, “Beau” Brummell, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld

Abstract

In this article it is analyzed the historical background of the modern
concept of luxury as opposed to the social significance that luxury possessed in premodern societies. The evolution of luxury is seen within the context of the evolution of fashion, highlighting how it participates in the emergence of modern forms of display of individual desire. This evolution is analyzed through four historical examples: the dandy “Beau” Brummell, the haute couture initiated by Frederik Worth, the creations of Yves Saint Laurent and the collections that Karl Lagerfeld developed for H&M.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Author Biography

António Machuco Rosa, Universidade do Porto

Doutor pela L’Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales, na especialidade Histoire des Sciences. Professor do
Departamento de Jornalismo e Ciências da Comunicação da Faculdade de Letras da Universidade do Porto

References

ARNOLD, R. Fashion, desire and anxiety: Image and morality in the 20th century. London: Tauris, 2001.

BAUDELAIRE, C. Le pientre de la vie moderne. Paris: Collections Litteratura.com, 2002 [1863].

BENAÏM, L. Yves Saint Laurent. Paris: Grasset, 2002.

BERGÉ, P. Yves Saint Laurent: The universe of fashion. New York: Rizolli, 1997.

BERRY, C. The idea of luxury: A conceptual and historical investigation ideas in context. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1993.

CÉZAN, C. La mode phénoméne humain. Paris: Privat, 1967.

GIRARD, R. Mensonge romantique, vérité romanesque. Paris: Grasset, 1961.

GOUVEIA, P. The democratization of fashion: How H&M and Zara have reshaped European fashion. The Marketing Site, 2011. Disponível em: <http://www.themarketingsite. com/live/content.php?Item_ID=8560>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.

GRUMBACH, D. Histoires de la mode. Paris: Éditions du Regard, 2008.

KAPFERER J.-N.; BASTIEN, V. The luxury strategy: Break the rules of marketing to build luxury brands. Londres: Kogan Page, 2009.

KELLY, I. Beau Brummell – The ultimate man of style. New York: Free Press, 2006.

KENT, J. Business builders in fashion. New York: Oliver Press, 2003.

LAG ERFELD, K. (2011a). Karl Lagerfeld opens up. Style.com, 7 set. 2011. Disponível em: <http://www.style.com/stylefile/2011/09/karl-lagerfeld-opens-up/>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.

_____________(2011b). Interview to Dare2Magazine. Disponível em: <http://www.dare2mag.

com/entertainment/2011/karl-lagerfel/>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.

_____________(2011c). Interview with Lagerfield on his new affordable line for Macy’s’. Disponível

em: <http://www.ladyblitz.com/fashion/interview-with-lagerfield-on-his-new-

-affordable-line-for-macys-1846/>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.

_____________(2011d). CNN interviews Karl Lagerfeld on Macy’s diffusion line: video and transcript. Lucire News, 9 Set. 2011. Disponível em: <http://lucire.com/insider/20110909/cnn-interviews-karl-lagerfeld-on-macys-diffusion-line-video-and-transcript/>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.

LIPOVETSKY, G. L’Empire de l’éphémère: La mode et son destin dans les sociétés modernes. Paris: Gallimard, 1987.

MENKES, S. Lagerfeld at H&M sizzling in Paris, lukewarm in London. New York Times, New York, 19 nov. 2011. Disponível em: <http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/16/style/16iht-flager_ed3_.html>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.

MOOR, L. The rise of brands. Oxford: Berg, 2007.

POIRET, P. En habillant l’époque. Paris: Grasset, 1974 [1930].

ROUFF, M. Une industrie motrice: La haute couture parisienne et son évolution. Annales.

Économies, Sociétés, Civilisations, 1, n. 2, p. 116-133, 1946.

SICARD, M.-C. Identité de marque. Paris: Eyrolles, 2008.

____________Luxe, mensonges et marketing. Paris: Pearson, 2010.

SIMMEL, G. Fashion. International Quarterly, 1, n. 10, p. 130-155, 1904.

SOUSA, S. P. O viajante imóvel – Estudo sobre a vida e a obra de Yves Saint Laurent. 2010. Tese de Mestrado, Universidade do Porto, Porto.

STEELE, V. Fetish – Fashion, sex and power. New York: Oxford University Press, 1996.

TOCQUEVILLE, A. De la Démocratie en Amérique. Paris: Gallimard, 1961 [1840]. v. II.

TUNGATE, M. Adland: A global history of advertising. London: Kogan Paul, 2007.

VEBLEN, T. The theory of the leisure class. New York: Penguin Books, 1994 [1899].

VINKEN, B. Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and cycles in the fashion system. London: Berg, 2005.

WILSON E. Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity. London: Virago Press, 1985.

Published

2014-08-29

How to Cite

Rosa, A. M. (2014). Historical trajectories of fashion: from ancient luxury to its democratization. Comunicação Mídia E Consumo, 11(31), 137–158. https://doi.org/10.18568/cmc.v11i31.514