Historical trajectories of fashion: from ancient luxury to its democratization
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.18568/cmc.v11i31.514Keywords:
Luxury, Fashion, “Beau” Brummell, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl LagerfeldAbstract
In this article it is analyzed the historical background of the modernconcept of luxury as opposed to the social significance that luxury possessed in premodern societies. The evolution of luxury is seen within the context of the evolution of fashion, highlighting how it participates in the emergence of modern forms of display of individual desire. This evolution is analyzed through four historical examples: the dandy “Beau” Brummell, the haute couture initiated by Frederik Worth, the creations of Yves Saint Laurent and the collections that Karl Lagerfeld developed for H&M.
Downloads
References
ARNOLD, R. Fashion, desire and anxiety: Image and morality in the 20th century. London: Tauris, 2001.
BAUDELAIRE, C. Le pientre de la vie moderne. Paris: Collections Litteratura.com, 2002 [1863].
BENAÏM, L. Yves Saint Laurent. Paris: Grasset, 2002.
BERGÉ, P. Yves Saint Laurent: The universe of fashion. New York: Rizolli, 1997.
BERRY, C. The idea of luxury: A conceptual and historical investigation ideas in context. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1993.
CÉZAN, C. La mode phénoméne humain. Paris: Privat, 1967.
GIRARD, R. Mensonge romantique, vérité romanesque. Paris: Grasset, 1961.
GOUVEIA, P. The democratization of fashion: How H&M and Zara have reshaped European fashion. The Marketing Site, 2011. Disponível em: <http://www.themarketingsite. com/live/content.php?Item_ID=8560>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.
GRUMBACH, D. Histoires de la mode. Paris: Éditions du Regard, 2008.
KAPFERER J.-N.; BASTIEN, V. The luxury strategy: Break the rules of marketing to build luxury brands. Londres: Kogan Page, 2009.
KELLY, I. Beau Brummell – The ultimate man of style. New York: Free Press, 2006.
KENT, J. Business builders in fashion. New York: Oliver Press, 2003.
LAG ERFELD, K. (2011a). Karl Lagerfeld opens up. Style.com, 7 set. 2011. Disponível em: <http://www.style.com/stylefile/2011/09/karl-lagerfeld-opens-up/>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.
_____________(2011b). Interview to Dare2Magazine. Disponível em: <http://www.dare2mag.
com/entertainment/2011/karl-lagerfel/>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.
_____________(2011c). Interview with Lagerfield on his new affordable line for Macy’s’. Disponível
em: <http://www.ladyblitz.com/fashion/interview-with-lagerfield-on-his-new-
-affordable-line-for-macys-1846/>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.
_____________(2011d). CNN interviews Karl Lagerfeld on Macy’s diffusion line: video and transcript. Lucire News, 9 Set. 2011. Disponível em: <http://lucire.com/insider/20110909/cnn-interviews-karl-lagerfeld-on-macys-diffusion-line-video-and-transcript/>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.
LIPOVETSKY, G. L’Empire de l’éphémère: La mode et son destin dans les sociétés modernes. Paris: Gallimard, 1987.
MENKES, S. Lagerfeld at H&M sizzling in Paris, lukewarm in London. New York Times, New York, 19 nov. 2011. Disponível em: <http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/16/style/16iht-flager_ed3_.html>. Acesso em: 25 set. 2013.
MOOR, L. The rise of brands. Oxford: Berg, 2007.
POIRET, P. En habillant l’époque. Paris: Grasset, 1974 [1930].
ROUFF, M. Une industrie motrice: La haute couture parisienne et son évolution. Annales.
Économies, Sociétés, Civilisations, 1, n. 2, p. 116-133, 1946.
SICARD, M.-C. Identité de marque. Paris: Eyrolles, 2008.
____________Luxe, mensonges et marketing. Paris: Pearson, 2010.
SIMMEL, G. Fashion. International Quarterly, 1, n. 10, p. 130-155, 1904.
SOUSA, S. P. O viajante imóvel – Estudo sobre a vida e a obra de Yves Saint Laurent. 2010. Tese de Mestrado, Universidade do Porto, Porto.
STEELE, V. Fetish – Fashion, sex and power. New York: Oxford University Press, 1996.
TOCQUEVILLE, A. De la Démocratie en Amérique. Paris: Gallimard, 1961 [1840]. v. II.
TUNGATE, M. Adland: A global history of advertising. London: Kogan Paul, 2007.
VEBLEN, T. The theory of the leisure class. New York: Penguin Books, 1994 [1899].
VINKEN, B. Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and cycles in the fashion system. London: Berg, 2005.
WILSON E. Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity. London: Virago Press, 1985.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Authors retain the copyright and grant the journal the right to first publication, with the work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution License that allows the work sharing with acknowledgment of authorship and initial publication in this magazine.